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 Summer 2002 (10.2)
 Pages
      28-33
 An Overview
 Baku:
      City that Oil Built
 by Farid Alakbarov   SEARCH for other articles
      by Farid Alakbarov published in Azerbaijan International, whose
      specialy is researching Azerbaijani manuscripts written in the
      Arabic script.
 Azerbaijan has long been known
      for its rich oil resources. The earliest exploration of onshore
      oil fields goes back at least to the 7th century BC, during the
      age of the Median kingdom in what is now Southern Azerbaijan
      [Iran]. The Median province that bordered Assyria became the
      first place in the world to extract oil from wells. Beginning
      in the 5th century BC, oil was lifted from wells in leather buckets.
 Oil played an important role in the everyday lives of the Medians,
      Caspians and other ancient tribes of Azerbaijan. As fuel, it
      was used to fill their lamps of clay and metal. Oil also made
      an effective weapon; Median warriors would apply oil to the tips
      of their arrows, javelins and projectiles. Once lit, these objects
      were hurled or catapulted into enemy camps and ships. Ancient
      Greeks referred to this ancient weapon flame-thrower as "Median
      oil".
 
 During the Middle Ages, oil was extracted in Azerbaijan on a
      larger scale - especially from the Absheron peninsula. In the
      10th to 13th centuries, "light oil" was extracted from
      the Balakhani village and "heavy oil" was extracted
      from Surakhani.
 
 
  
 Above: Fireworshippers' Temple at Atashgah,
      not far from Baku's International Airport, was built by Zoroastrians
      (Parsees from India). Today a fire fed by gas into the center
      of the cupola burns constantly.
 
 Azerbaijanis have known how to distill oil since the early centuries
      AD. Thirteenth - century geographer Ibn Bekran writes that oil
      was distilled in Baku in order to minimize its bad smell and
      make it more appropriate for medicinal applications.
 
 Marco Polo wrote in the 13th century that the excellent Baku
      oil was used for illuminating houses and treating skin diseases.
      Azerbaijani geographer Abd ar-Rashid Bakuvi (14th-15th centuries)
      noted that up to 200 camel bales of oil were exported from Baku
      every day. Since a single "camel bale" is the equivalent
      of approximately 300 kg of oil, this would have meant a regular
      supply of 60,000 kg of oil per day.
 
 
   According to Hamdullah Gazvini (14th
      century), workers used to fill the oil wells with water so that
      the oil would rise to the surface. Then the oil was collected
      in leather bags made from the skins of Caspian seals. In 1669,
      medieval scholar Muhammad Mu'min likewise noted that these types
      of leather bags were being used for the storage and transportation
      of oil. 
 Right: Political cartoon on the front cover
      of Molla Nasraddin publication, showing how Azerbaijan (depicted
      as the beautiful lady) was being both courted and threatened
      by foreign lands because of oil resources. 1922
 
 In 1572, British businessman Jeffrey Decket visited Baku and
      recorded his observations about the city. According to him, a
      large amount of oil had seeped to the surface of the earth in
      the vicinity of Baku. Many people traveled there to obtain this
      oil - even from considerable distances.
 
 Decket wrote that a type of black oil, called "naft",
      was used throughout the country to illuminate homes. This oil
      was also transported to other countries on the backs of mules
      and donkeys, in caravans of 400 to 500 animals. In the vicinity
      of Baku, he noted a white and very valuable kind of oil. He supposed
      that "it was similar to our petroleum (the mountainous oil)."
 
 In 1601 the Iranian historian Amin Ahmad ar-Razi mentions that
      there were 500 oil wells in the vicinity of Baku from which oil
      was extracted on a daily basis. Katib Chelebi, the Turkish historian
      of the 17th century AD, quotes these same figures.
 
 Lerch, the 17th-century German traveler, writes that there were
      350-400 oil wells in the Absheron peninsula and that there was
      a single well in Balakhani village where approximately 3,000
      kg of oil was extracted on a daily basis.
 
 
   Left: Haji Zeynalabdin's home in the Inner City with
      the cannon set up in front of it. This Baroque mansion was demolished
      in the 1970s and its place, a Soviet style building, known as
      the Encyclopedia Building took its place. 
 German scholar and secretary
      of the Swedish Embassy, Engelbert Kaempfer (1651-1716), who visited
      Baku in 1683, wrote in his diary that the oil wells there were
      up to 27 meters deep, with walls covered in limestone or wood.
      During this period, Baku oil was already being exported to Russia
      and other countries in Eastern Europe.
 
 He writes that in Surakhani, a village alone not far from Baku,
      between 2,700 kg to 3,000 kg of oil were extracted daily for
      export. This quantity filled 80 carriages carrying 8 oil bags
      each.
 
 As far back as the Middle Ages, oil extraction led to the pollution
      of the environment, though, obviously, this was not a primary
      concern at the time. Azerbaijani author Muhammad Yusif Shirvani
      wrote in his "Tibbname" (Book of Medicine, 1712) that
      as a result of oil and sulfur extraction, both the soil and water
      of the area had become contaminated.
 
 
 According to British missionary Father Willot, who visited Azerbaijan
      in 1689, the annual income that the Safavi shahs derived from
      Baku oil was 7,000 tumans, or 420,000 French livres (the French
      currency that was used before the franc was introduced in 1799).
 
 Source of Sacred
      Fire
 Before the introduction of Islam in the region at the end of
      the 7th century AD, the people who lived in what is now known
      as Azerbaijan were Zoroastrians who worshipped fire. The area
      around Baku became a spiritual hub for Zoroastrianism because
      of a curious natural phenomenon: so much oil is buried deep inside
      the ground that the gas seeps through fissures in the surface
      and catches on fire. It was at these sites, which were considered
      sacred, that fire-worshipping temples were built in Surakhani
      and other districts near Baku on the Absheron peninsula.
 
 
   Right: Gochu Mammad Hanifa with his children, Abbas
      and Ana Khanim. 1911. Mammad Hanifa succeeded in preventing the
      Bolsheviks and Armenians from entering Baku's Inner City during
      the massacre that swept the city in March 1918. In 1920 when
      the Bolsheviks took power, Hanifa was arrested and assassinated
      as an "Enemy of the People". 
 Even today, a gas torch
      burns from atop Baku's famous Maiden's Tower. Some scholars believe
      that the Maiden's Tower was used for defense purposes. Others
      suggest that it was used as a Zoroastrian temple as far back
      as 2,500 years ago. Archeological excavations have revealed that
      there was an altar located near the Maiden's Tower. The altar's
      stone basin contains traces of oil and fire, leading researchers
      to interpret that this holy basin was kept filled with oil in
      order to keep an eternal flame burning. Professor Davud Akhundov
      also believes that there was a "Temple of Fire in the Water"
      located on the seacoast in front of the Maiden's Tower in the
      Caspian during the 1st millennium BC.
 
 Oil and gas continued to be used as a source for Holy Fire, even
      during the Middle Ages, after most Azerbaijanis had converted
      to Islam. In the 18th century, the burning oil of the Absheron
      peninsula attracted fire worshippers from India who built a Temple
      of Fire (Atashgah) in the Surakhani village near Baku. These
      Zoroastrians worshipped the eternal, sacred fire that was being
      nourished from the gas and oil burning inside the temple.
 
 In the 19th century, French novelist Alexander Dumas visited
      Atashgah and wrote: "With the exception of Frenchmen who
      rarely travel, the whole world is aware of the Atashgah in Baku.My
      compatriots who want to see the fire-worshippers must be quick
      because already there are so few left in the temple, just one
      old man and two younger ones about 30-35 years old."
 
 Dumas described the temple as follows: "We went inside the
      temple through the gates, which were entirely enveloped in flames.
      The prayer room with the cupola is erected in the middle of a
      large quadrangular court; the eternal fire is ablaze right in
      the middle of the prayer room."
 
 Oil as
      Medicine
 Oil and oil-based products were widely used for medicinal purposes
      during the Middle Ages, according to manuscripts on medical and
      pharmaceutical practices that are currently held at Baku's Institute
      of Manuscripts. Mineral oil was used in ointments that were applied
      externally against such diseases as neuralgia (neurological disease),
      physical weakness, paralysis and tremor. Oil was also used for
      chest pains, coughing, asthma and rheumatism.
 
 Three
      photos below: During World
      War II, Hitler was set on capturing Baku's oil fields to fuel
      his own efforts of the war. At that time Baku's oil was providing
      almost the entire supply of fuel for the Soviet resistance. Hitler's
      plan was to attck Baku on September 25, 1942. Anticipating the
      upcoming victory, his generals presented him a cake of the region
      - Baku and the Caspian Sea. Delighted, Hitler took the choice
      piece for himself - Baku. Fortunately, the attack never occurred
      and German forces were defeated before they could reach Baku.
      Photos from documentary film. The Allies were not unaware of
      Hitler's goals and had drawn up a map of the oil wells in Baku's
      city which they intended to bomb if Hitler managed to take Baku.
 
 
  
 For example, the book "Jam-al-Baghdadi" (Baghdad Collection),
      written in 1311 by Azerbaijani author Yusif Khoyi, addresses
      the use of oil and bitumen in medicine. He said that ointments
      made from oil were applied externally to treat tumors, eye drops
      made of oil were used to treat cataracts, and eardrops were used
      to treat earaches.
 
 
   In his 1669 book "Tukhfat al-mu'minin"
      (Gift Of True Believers), Muhammad Mu'min recommended the use
      of oil-based remedies for asthma, chronic cough, colic, dyspepsia
      and intestinal worms. 
 Similarly, 17th-century Azerbaijani author Hasan bin Riza Shirvani
      described the curative effects of "white oil", "blue
      oil", "black oil" and bitumen. Black oil is unrefined
      oil, "blue oil" is poorly distilled oil, and "white
      oil" is distilled oil or what Azerbaijanis today call kerosene
      - "agh neft" (white oil).
 
 Oil was used for veterinary purposes as well. Abdurrashid Bakuvi,
      a 15th-century scientist who lived in Baku, wrote about oil's
      antiseptic properties. According to Bakuvi, residents of Baku
      and Absheron treated the coats of camels with oil to protect
      them from mange.
 
 
   In modern Azerbaijan, oil is still used
      medicinally, such as with Naftalan, a special oil that is found
      in its natural state in north-central Azerbaijan where a therapeutic
      center has been built. Several therapeutic centers in Baku also
      use oil as an alternative means of healing. 
 Oil
      and Architecture
 Baku has not always been the architecturally beautiful city that
      it is today. In the 18th century, it was still just a small port
      on the Caspian Sea, with only 7,000 residents. Its architectural
      heritage included only the Shirvanshah Palace, the Maiden's Tower,
      the medieval city walls and several ancient mosques, bathhouses
      and fortresses. At that time, the amount of oil being extracted
      for commercial use was insignificant.
 
 After Azerbaijan was occupied by Russia, oil extraction on the
      Absheron Peninsula increased substantially. Oil money was spent
      to construct beautiful houses and gardens in the city. By the
      second half of the 19th century, Baku had become the center of
      the Caucasus and one of the largest industrial centers of the
      Russian Empire.
 
 Baku did not become such a large city overnight. By the end of
      the19th century, there were two large, beautiful cities in the
      Caucasus: Baku and Tiflis (now Tbilisi). These two cities competed
      with each other in magnificence and beauty. Shamakhi and Ganja
      (in Azerbaijan), Yerevan (Armenia), Batumi (Georgia) and other
      small cities were seen as less important.
 
 At that time, the Russian government paid attention to Tiflis
      and spent a great deal of money beautifying the city. The Tsar's
      general-governors of the Caucasus made their seat of government
      there. Soon Tiflis was filled with beautiful buildings and considered
      to be the best city in the Caucasus.
 
 Even though the Russian government did not pay nearly as much
      attention to Baku, the city developed through the use of its
      rich oil resources. During the period of 1890 to 1920, Baku surpassed
      Tiflis in both size and beauty. Oil barons such as Taghiyev,
      Naghiyev and Mukhtarov filled the city with palatial mansions
      in various European styles, including Baroque, Renaissance, Mauritanian
      and Early Modern.
 
 The establishment of Soviet rule in 1920 meant the end of construction
      for the grand oil baron palaces. Instead, a number of standard
      "house-boxes" appeared throughout the city. But even
      throughout the Soviet period, Baku remained the largest, most
      important and most beautiful city in the Caucasus. In fact, during
      the Stalinist era, some very beautiful administrative buildings
      were constructed. One of the most impressive of these buildings,
      found on Nizami Street, was built for oil workers and named "Buzovnineft"
      (Buzovni Oil Field).
 
 In terms of population, Baku was the largest city of the USSR
      after Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kiev and Tashkent. A number of
      oil processing plants, chemical enterprises and factories for
      oil drilling equipment were constructed there. Because of its
      natural resources, Baku became one of the most important industrial
      centers of the Soviet Union.
 Ever since Azerbaijan gained its independence in late 1991 and
      began its transition to a market economy, oil has had even more
      of an influence on the city's architecture. As a direct result
      of the second Oil Boom, hundreds of new, beautiful buildings
      have already been built in Baku this past decade.
 
 Oil and Culture
 Baku's early-20th-century Oil Boom helped to revive many branches
      of Azerbaijani culture. Azerbaijani oil barons like Haji Zeynalabdin
      Taghiyev made huge contributions and supported the arts with
      their patronage. For instance, 110 years ago, Taghiyev financed
      the construction of the first European-style drama theater in
      the entire region. Several years later, he founded the Russian
      Muslim Alexandrian Female Boarding School in Baku, the world's
      first Muslim boarding school for girls.
 
 Brilliant Azerbaijani composers like Uzeyir Hajibeyov and Muslim
      Magomayev were provided with resources and the opportunity to
      revolutionize Eastern music. Hajibeyov melded the Western musical
      genre of opera with the Eastern form of music known as "mugham"
      to create exquisite works such as "Leyli and Majnun"
      (1908) and "Koroghlu" (1937).
 
 Oil turned Baku into a cultural center - not just of the Caucasus,
      but also of the entire Muslim East. Between 1900 and 1920, hundreds
      of Azeri-language newspapers, magazines and books were published
      in Baku. One of these was the famous "Molla
      Nasraddin" newsletter, founded by satirist Jalil
      Mammadguluzadeh and influential not only in Azerbaijan but
      also in Central Asia, Turkey, Iran and the Balkans.
 
 Taghiyev and the other oil barons sent Azerbaijani students to
      study in Russia and Europe. This education abroad stimulated
      the intellectual growth of figures such as Mammad
      Amin Rasulzade, ideological leader of the Azerbaijan national
      movement and founder of the first Azerbaijani political party;
      Fatali Khan
      Khoyski, first President of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic
      (1918-1920); Ahmad Aghayev, writer and ideologist of the Azerbaijani
      national movement; Jeyhun
      Hajibeyli, brother of composer Uzeyir Hajibeyov, member of
      the Musavat Party and one of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic
      (ADR) diplomats (1918-1920) to France; and Sabir, a satiric poet
      who wrote about socio-political issues.
 
 Consequently, it is no accident that the first democratic republic
      in the Muslim East appeared in Azerbaijan in 1918. Five years
      later, even while Azerbaijan was under Soviet rule, Azerbaijan
      became the first Muslim country to adopt a Latin-based alphabet
      to replace the Arabic script. Azerbaijani intellectuals Ahmad
      Aghayev and Ali Huseinzade deeply influenced the development
      of Pan-Turkist ideology in Turkey. And Muslims and Turks from
      all over Russia came to Baku to learn more about the Azerbaijani
      cultural heritage.
 
 During the first Oil Boom, Azerbaijan deeply influenced the development
      of politics in Iran, especially in Southern Azerbaijan. Hundreds
      of peasants came to Baku to earn money in the oil fields. Baku
      residents called these workers "hamshahri" (compatriots).
      The peasants were so poor that they didn't even have regular
      clothes. Their shirts, arms and faces were always covered with
      black oil. Even today, Baku residents will say to someone with
      very shabby and dirty clothes: "Why are you dressed like
      a hamshahri?"
 
 The "hamshahri" soon came under the influence of national
      Azerbaijani and socialist ideology. The ideas that they picked
      up in Northern Azerbaijan helped to promote the progressive movements
      in Southern Azerbaijan (Iran) under the leadership of Sattar-khan
      and Sheikh Mahammad Khiyabani in the early 20th century.
 
 Cultural Center
 During Soviet rule, Baku gained a reputation as a large cultural
      and tourist center. It was often the third major city (after
      Moscow and St. Petersburg) in the routes of many of the foreign
      diplomats, tourists, opera and pop singers who visited the former
      USSR. Of course, the fact that Baku could pay with hard currency
      from oil revenues, undoubtedly, influenced these visits as well.
 
 Under the rule of the Communist Party, oil once again had a significant
      impact on Azerbaijani culture. Propagandists established the
      cult of the oil worker as a "hero of labor." Writers,
      painters and composers were commissioned to glorify "the
      great work of oil workers." Hundreds of songs, poems, novels
      and films were created about the life and work of these people.
 
 For instance, Azerbaijani painter Tahir Salakhov, who now lives
      in Moscow and serves as chairman of the Russian Artist's Union,
      depicted scores of oil workers in paintings such as "Neft
      Dashlari"(Oil Rocks). Famous singer Rashid Behbudov performed
      songs about oil and played the main role in a musical film about
      oil workers, "On the Distant Shores," which was produced
      in the 1960s by Azerbaijan Film Studio. And poet Samad Vurghun
      wrote about oil in his famous poem "Azerbaijan".
 
 Today, many international oil enterprises have helped to support
      various branches of Azerbaijani culture. Some oil companies provide
      financial help to orphanages, schools and kindergartens. Others
      restore architectural monuments, donate computers and technical
      equipment to Azerbaijani universities and scientific institutions
      or sponsor talented youth by funding their education at local
      and foreign universities.
 
 Oil and Revolution
 Up until 1917, the region known as Azerbaijan was ruled by the
      Russian Empire and its leaders were not very much involved with
      international politics. That situation changed with the Czarist
      regime's collapse and the ensuing October Revolution in Russia.
      The great Russian Empire, which had controlled Northern Azerbaijan
      for the previous 100 years, was overthrown. Azerbaijan and the
      other states in the Caucasus found themselves in a very confusing
      and precarious situation. Baku, with its large supply of oil,
      was the envy of many countries. Azerbaijan's large and powerful
      neighbors were envious of Baku and sought to gain control over
      it.
 
 In 1918, Azerbaijan declared its independence, but the country's
      legitimate government was not able to enter Baku. As the center
      of the area's oil industry, the city remained in the hands of
      various foreign forces, including the Bolsheviks, the Central
      Caspian Dictatorship and the British.
 
 In Soviet Russia, Lenin kept a watchful eye on the rich oil fields
      of Baku and dreamt of gaining control of them. "Soviet Russia
      can't survive without Baku oil." Lenin said repeatedly.
      "We must assist the Baku workers in overthrowing the capitalists
      so they can join Russia again!"
 
 The Russian Bolsheviks worked to recapture the power. They supported
      the 26 Baku Commissars, who were mostly Armenian and Russian,
      not Azerbaijani. The Chairman of the Baku Commune of Commissars,
      Stepan Shaumian, declared: "Russia suffers very much without
      Baku's oil. The international working class of Baku must help
      build the world's first Bolshevik state. We must supply them
      with oil. In turn, the Russians will send us bread and feed all
      of the poor in Baku!"
 
 However, the Bolsheviks were not the owners of the Baku oil fields.
      To assist Russia, they first needed to capture the power structure
      of the city. But it was not so easy - most of the Azerbaijanis
      and even Russians in Baku did not want to live under the leadership
      of the Bolsheviks. As a result, the Bolsheviks used the Baku
      Armenians as their primary allies in the war for Baku oil.
 
 Oil and Ethnic
      Conflict
 Before the arrival of the Russian army in the early 19th century,
      Armenians and Azerbaijanis did not consider themselves to be
      enemies. In fact, these two cultures are very similar to one
      another, especially in terms of customs, music and cuisine.
 
 So who or what provoked this animosity between Azerbaijanis and
      Armenians? In order to maintain its power and influence in the
      Caucasus and Asia Minor, Tsarist and Bolshevik Russia repeatedly
      attempted to arouse national hatred in the region. In 1918, the
      Bolsheviks encouraged Armenian Nationalists, known as "Dashnaks",
      to undertake pogroms against Azerbaijanis. The Dashnaks were
      members of the Armenian Nationalist Dashnaktsutsiun Leftist Party,
      which carried out military and terrorist actions.
 
 That year, the Bolsheviks and Dashnaks conducted secret negotiations
      and decided to attack the Azerbaijanis in Baku and capture the
      city. The Dashnaks prepared themselves for a lengthy battle,
      stationing many armed troops in Baku. These fighters called themselves
      "Mauserists", referring to the large Mauser revolver
      that each of them carried. The Bolsheviks desperately needed
      Baku's oil and felt they couldn't wait any longer, so they urged
      the Mauserists to attack the Azerbaijanis.
 
 In March 1918, the Armenian-Azerbaijani conflict in Baku began.
      This outbreak was in reality a massacre of Azerbaijani civilians,
      not a war between military forces. Unlike Armenian Dashnaks,
      the Azerbaijanis in Baku had few weapons and military forces
      to protect themselves. They were not prepared to resist a strongly
      equipped enemy.
 
 The Oil Barons anticipated the attacks as they had received warnings
      about the planned pogroms from informants and government authorities.
      They fled the city and hid in their countryside dachas, many
      to Mardakan on the Absheron peninsula. Some left for Moscow,
      St. Petersburg and Tehran. This left behind thousands of poor
      Azerbaijanis who didn't have country villas to escape to or enough
      money to leave the city. Many of the residents were not even
      aware that trouble was brewing.
 
 Once the dust from the March 18th massacre cleared, an estimated
      12,000 civilians had been murdered in their homes and in the
      streets of Baku. [Source: "Azerbaijan" newspaper -
      the official organ of Azerbaijan Democratic Republic government].
 
 My great-grandfather, famous philanthropist Hatam Abdul Bagi
      (Generous Abdul Baghi, as he was called), was among them. In
      one incident, Armenian Dashnak commander Lalayan captured hundreds
      of Azerbaijanis and held them hostage in the Opera House, demanding
      heavy ransoms from their families. But after receiving the money,
      instead of releasing the victims as he had promised, he shot
      all of his hostages.
 
 Another Dashnak leader, Amazasp, continued the pogroms throughout
      Baku and various cities in Azerbaijan. In Shamakhi, Dashnaks
      locked hundreds of people inside a mosque and set it on fire.
      In Guba and Salyan, Amazasp's forces killed and mutilated hundreds
      of civilians.
 
 Even though few of them were armed, Azerbaijanis gathered in
      the streets to try to resist the Dashnaks. Famous flour and oil
      baron Agha Bala Guliyev went throughout Baku, declaring: "My
      compatriots! It is necessary to save our nation. I'll grant you
      4,000 bags of flour from my factory. Come and defend our city!"
 
 Likewise, oil baron Teymur Ashurbeyov told the Azerbaijanis:
      "I can offer you 4,000 guns and 200 boxes of bullets."
      Hundreds of Azerbaijanis went into the streets to defend their
      city from pogroms. However, the Armenian-Bolshevik coalition
      was stronger, and the Azerbaijanis were defeated.
 
 In this way, the 26 Commissars captured the city. Baku oil was
      in the hands of the Bolsheviks. Stepan Shaumyan, the new head
      of the Baku government, said on the occasion: "I'm sorry
      that so many Muslim civilians died, but our victory is so great
      than we should not think about such insignificant things."
      Within one month, the Baku Commissars had sent 1.5 million tons
      of oil to Russia.
 
 During the Soviet period, all of these terrible events were kept
      secret. Nobody could speak about the murder of thousands of civilians
      in various parts of Azerbaijan. Many people didn't even know
      that the remains of these victims had been buried in mass graves
      on the hillside of what is known today as Martyr's Alley. Only
      this year - 2002 - did the Azerbaijani Parliament identify these
      events and call them the "Genocide of the Azerbaijani People."
 
 Oil Rescued Inner
      City
 The only part of Baku left untouched by the Armenian-Bolshevik
      massacre was the ancient walled Inner City. This was largely
      due to the efforts of oil barons and local "gochus"
      (an outlaw-type character) who armed and mobilized the Azerbaijani
      resistance. Some of these oil barons bought weapons with their
      own money and distributed them among the population. Protected
      by the walls of the ancient fortress, the Azerbaijanis were able
      to stave off the Armenians, who were forced to retreat.
 
 One of the most courageous resisters was Mammad Hanifa (1875-1920),
      who helped to organize the defense of the Inner City. The owner
      of the Volcano Steamship Company, he himself was the son of a
      famous oil baron and landowner, Haji Zeynaladin (1837-1915),
      nicknamed "Gatir" (Stubborn). Mammad Hanifa was engaged
      in the shipping of oil from Baku to Astrakhan, Rasht, Anzali
      and other ports in the Caspian. The oil business had made him
      very wealthy and influential in the Inner City. At this critical
      time, he used this oil money to save the Inner City from pogroms.
 
 Mammad Hanifa's nickname was "Gochu Mammad Hanifa"
      (Brave Mammad Hanifa). His pastimes included wrestling and shooting
      his revolver. Before the Armenians attacked, his relatives cautioned
      him: "Soon, Armenians will kill all of the Muslims in the
      city. We are going to leave for our countryside homes. Don't
      be a fool, leave the city!"
 But Mammad Hanifa countered: "I'm not a coward. The people
      in the Inner City consider me their leader. Besides, I'm the
      chief of the local Gochu. They respect and trust me. How can
      I run away and leave them alone in this terrible situation?"
 
 Mammad Hanifa bought revolvers, guns and even machine guns and
      distributed them among the native residents. Then he conscripted
      all of the Inner City's men. Some of them were afraid of war
      and didn't want to defend the Inner City, but Mammad Hanifa made
      personal visits with his armed gochus and forced them to join
      him.
 
 One story is told how a merchant named Abdul answered his pleas
      to join the resistance: "Please don't bother me! I have
      a large family. Who will take care of them if the Armenians kill
      me? I'm rich. Let me and my friends go home and pay you!"
 
 Mammad Hanifa became enraged and replied: "I don't need
      your filthy money, you coward dog! I have a family, too, but
      I haven't shrugged from war. Stand up and come with me, or I'll
      kill you here on the spot!" The merchant joined.
 
 Mammad Hanifa led the Inner City's defenders himself. His national
      hat, called a "papag", got shot through with bullets
      several times, but he himself was not harmed. This hat has been
      kept in my own family as a relic of these events: Mammad Hanifa
      was my grandmother's uncle.
 
 In the end, the Inner City was saved, but Gochu Mammad Hanifa
      did not survive long afterwards. In 1920, he was arrested by
      Bolsheviks and assassinated as an "Enemy of the People."
 
 I read these accounts about Mammad Hanifa's courageous efforts
      in the Azerbaijani newspapers of 1918 that documented these terrible
      events. No doubt, there were hundreds of other brave gochus throughout
      Baku who played an important role in saving civilians from the
      pogroms, but their efforts have been forgotten and obscured during
      the Soviet period (1920-1991).
 
 Oil and International
      Politics
 The Baku Commissars' power over the city did not last long. The
      Russian government took the Baku oil but did not want to send
      the bread in return as they had promised, so the poor in Baku
      starved. The Mensheviks and Dashnaks in Baku rose up against
      their former ally, Soviet Russia, and decided to invite the British
      army into the city. In the summer of 1918, a British military
      detachment was sent to Baku and arrested and shot the 26 Bolshevik
      Commissars. Again, Lenin was deprived of the Baku oil.
 
 The Azerbaijan Democratic Republic (ADR) government, which was
      stationed in Ganja at the time, tried to return to Baku with
      some help from Turkey. On August 31, Turkish general Nuri Pasha
      entered Baku with just 3,000 soldiers and defeated the 30,000-man
      military coalition of Dashnaks and Russian Mensheviks. The English
      hastily retreated from the city, and the young Azerbaijani government
      was able to move its seat of power from the small city of Ganja
      to Baku. On November 17, according to an international pact,
      the Turks left Baku and the British army returned there again,
      formally recognizing the ADR government.
 
 However, the Bolsheviks did not give up on their plans to seize
      the Baku oil. On April 18, 1920, the ADR was annexed by the 11th
      Red Army, and Azerbaijan became part of what eventually became
      the USSR. Moscow emissary Serebrovski was appointed to supervise
      the entire oil industry in Baku. After that, private owners were
      deprived of their oil resources and all their properties were
      seized and confiscated. This is the situation that continued
      for more than 70 years (1920-1991).
 
 In 1920, many of the oil barons in Baku suspected that the ADR
      would be overrun by Bolsheviks, so they tried to sell the shares
      of their oil companies. Nobody wanted to buy them because the
      political situation in Caucasus was so volatile. One exception
      was the famous American millionaire John Rockefeller, founder
      of the Standard Oil Company. He dared to buy the oil shares from
      the Nobels, Mantashev,
      Naghiyev and other famous Baku oil barons. When Baku was recaptured
      by the Bolsheviks in 1920, Rockefeller was stunned. He was sure
      that the Bolshevik rule would be short-lived. He waited for them
      to be overthrown, but all in vain.
 
 During World
      War II, Adolf Hitler went in hot pursuit of Baku's oil fields.
      At that time, 90 percent of all Soviet tanks and airplanes were
      powered by fuel from Baku. Hitler had drawn up plans to attack
      the capital on September 25, 1942. Documentary film footage even
      shows him, surrounded by his generals, celebrating what they
      thought would be an obvious win. The choice slice of the "Victory
      Cake", on which the word "Baku" was written, went
      to Hitler. The "Caspian Sea" was shared by others.
      Nor were the Allies oblivious to Hitler's obsession to lay claim
      on the Caspian; the British had even drawn up plans exactly where
      to target their bombs in Baku's "Black City" oil fields
      to destroy the oil fields if Hitler succeeded in taking the city.
 
 Fortunately, the bitter winter of 1942 brought the stoic German
      troops to a halt in the isolated mountains of North Caucasus.
      Had Hitler succeeded in capturing Baku, the Soviet Army would
      have been deprived of its main source of fuel, and the war could
      well have ended differently. Not many people realize that they
      have Azerbaijan to thank for the significant role it played in
      helping the Allies defeat Nazi Germany.
 
 After Azerbaijan became independent in 1991, once again the nation
      got the chance to benefit from its own oil resources. As of September
      1994, nearly two dozen major oil contracts have been signed with
      international companies - some of the largest corporations in
      the world. As a result already millions of dollars have been
      invested in the local economy.
 
 Life in modern Azerbaijan is still closely associated with oil.
      In addition to providing new jobs for Azerbaijanis, oil money
      has changed the architectural face of Baku. Hundreds of new buildings,
      markets, restaurants and gardens are being built throughout the
      city. Once again, Azerbaijan is turning out to be the economic
      and political center of the Caucasus and the driving force is,
      as it has been for centuries - oil.
 Dr. Farid Alakbarov, a frequent
      contributor to Azerbaijan International, is chief scientific
      officer in the Department of Arabic Manuscripts at the Institute
      of Manuscripts. To read other articles by him, make a SEARCH
      here at AZER.com. Several of Farid
      Alakbarov's articles may also be found in Azeri Latin at
      AZERI.org - our website that
      features Azerbaijani language and literature.
 ____
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